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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s top eateries, one might foresee well-known award-winning establishments. Yet, situated high among these gastronomic giants is a modest salonu found in a outlying corner of north London.

An Surprise Honour

The compact Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a influential gastronomic guide. This honour has made the proprietors utterly shocked.

“I’m totally astonished,” states the proprietor, alluding to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their humble restaurant achieving such a prominent spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

The little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing spot, has kept much of its former charm. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking performance, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” says the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the food, and this restaurant certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a moist, juicy texture.

It is then added into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in slowly. Once the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the savoury meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic described this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, resulting in it a deeper, toastier and more balanced taste.

Surpassing the Stars

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place satisfied for below £25, similar meals at high-end establishments can start at many times that amount.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is echoed by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he were in a role of power, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to show what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at fancy establishments. “I am very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a social life but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s success is bound to resonate outside its own doors. “In my opinion many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the wider meaning of this culinary achievement.